Backyard chickens
Chicken runs
Little things. Happy tails.
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All chicken runs
Little essentials. Lots of love.
A little guidance
Help choosing chicken runs
Buying guides and care advice written for this range: what to measure, what matters and what to skip.
From our guides
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- Free-Range Chickens: How to Let Them Roam Safely →
- Golden Comet Chickens: Eggs, Temperament and Care →
- How Long Does It Take for Chicken Eggs to Hatch? →
This page holds chicken runs for backyard keepers: large walk-in galvanized steel runs, covered metal-frame runs, wooden runs with perches that join together, and coops sold with a run attached. Sizes range from a small add-on for one or two hens to runs listed for 19 to 25 birds. Below you will find how much space each hen needs and how to keep predators out.
Types of chicken run in this range
The largest pieces are walk-in runs with a galvanized steel frame and a fabric or mesh cover, in footprints such as 10 by 13 ft and roughly 17 by 16 ft. You can stand up inside them to clean, collect eggs and catch birds, which matters more than it sounds once you are doing it every day.
There are also wooden runs with perches, designed so two units can be joined into a longer run, small coops with a built-in run for one or two hens, and wooden add-on extensions that bolt onto an existing coop. Metal suits a permanent spot; wood looks better in a yard but needs a sealant to last.
How much space each hen needs
Penn State Extension's housing table gives 8 sq ft of outdoor run space per laying hen, 10 sq ft for large breeds and 4 sq ft for bantams, on top of indoor coop space. So six standard hens need about 48 sq ft of run, which a 6 by 8 ft run covers; a 10 by 13 ft run gives 130 sq ft, enough for around 16 laying hens.
Treat those numbers as a minimum. Crowded hens peck each other, the ground turns to mud faster and disease spreads more easily. If you plan to add birds next spring, size the run for the flock you will have, not the one you have now.
Predator proofing
Raccoons, foxes, hawks, dogs and weasels all take backyard chickens, and most of them dig, climb or reach. Penn State recommends burying fence wire at least 12 inches deep and bending the bottom outward about 6 inches, so a digging animal meets wire wherever it starts. A skirt of hardware cloth laid flat on the ground and pinned down works on a run that cannot be trenched.
Cover the top. A mesh roof or netting stops hawks and owls, and a solid or waterproof cover also keeps the run dry. Check gaps at doors and corners, use latches a raccoon cannot flip open, and shut the birds in the coop at night.
Ventilation, shade and weather
A run gives hens fresh air, but they still need shade in summer and shelter from wind and rain. A cover over part or all of the run keeps feed and the ground dry, which cuts down on mud, smell and the parasites that thrive in wet soil.
In hot weather, make sure part of the run is shaded all afternoon and that water stays cool. In winter, a wind break on the side facing the prevailing wind lets hens stay out on dry days. Never seal a run so tightly that air cannot move; the coop needs airflow too.
Cleaning and ground cover
Bare soil in a busy run turns to compacted mud. A few inches of wood chips, sand or straw over the floor soaks up droppings and gives hens something to scratch, and it can be raked out and composted. A walk-in run makes this far easier than a low run you have to reach into.
Move water and feeders now and then so one patch does not get waterlogged, and put feed under cover so wild birds and rodents do not help themselves. Rake droppings weekly and replace the bedding when it stays wet.
Matching a run to your coop
Most keepers buy the coop first and add a run, so measure the coop's pop door and the space beside it. Wooden add-on runs are made to sit against a coop of similar style; a walk-in metal run can wrap around a small coop or sit next to a larger one with a short covered walkway.
Check your town or HOA rules before you build. Many US towns limit flock size, ban roosters or set distances from property lines, and a large walk-in run can count as a structure. Knowing that first avoids buying a run you cannot use.
Run structures and extension arrangements
| Structure | Body arrangement | What to measure |
|---|---|---|
| Walk-in metal run | Steel frame with a fabric or mesh cover | Deployed footprint,door and head clearance |
| Joinable wooden run | Separate wooden units connect | Connection points and combined footprint |
| Coop with run | Shelter and exercise area in one structure | Each area separately |
| Add-on extension | An extension joins an existing coop | Exact connection compatibility |
How big should a chicken run be?
Allow at least 8 sq ft of run per laying hen and 10 sq ft for large breeds, per Penn State Extension. Six standard hens need roughly 48 sq ft, and more space always means calmer, cleaner birds.
How do I stop predators digging into a chicken run?
Bury the fence wire at least 12 inches deep and bend it outward, or pin a hardware cloth apron flat around the base. Diggers hit the wire and give up before they reach the run.
Does a chicken run need a roof?
A covered top is strongly advised. Netting or mesh stops hawks and owls, and a waterproof cover keeps the ground and feed dry, which reduces mud, smell and parasites.
What do you put on the floor of a chicken run?
Wood chips, sand or straw over the soil absorb droppings, keep hens scratching and are easy to rake out. Replace the layer when it stays wet or smells.
Can chickens stay in the run all day?
Yes, as long as the run is large enough, covered, shaded and has water and feed. They still need to go into a secure coop at night, when most predators hunt.