Backyard chickens
Chicken nesting boxes
Little things. Happy tails.
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All chicken nesting boxes
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A little guidance
Help choosing chicken nesting boxes
Buying guides and care advice written for this range: what to measure, what matters and what to skip.
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This page is the egg-laying corner of our backyard poultry range: wall-mounted galvanized metal nesting boxes with 3, 4, 6 and 8 compartments, and wooden chicken coops with built-in nest boxes, many with outside access doors for collecting eggs. It is for keepers adding nests to a coop they already have, and for anyone choosing a coop where nesting space matters as much as roosting space. For whole coops, see our chicken coops page.
Separate nesting boxes or a coop with nests
Metal nesting boxes are a standalone unit you mount on the coop wall. They suit keepers who built their own coop, outgrew the nests that came with theirs, or want something easy to scrub. Galvanized steel resists mites better than wood and can be hosed out and dried in the sun.
Wooden coops with integrated nest boxes keep everything in one structure, and the best ones let you lift a lid from outside to collect eggs without going in. Check the number of nests against the number of hens the coop is listed for, because some coops include fewer nests than the flock needs.
How many nest boxes you need
Hens share nests happily, and often all queue for the same favorite one. Penn State Extension recommends two nests for the first four hens, then one more nest for every four additional hens. So six hens need three nests, and a flock of ten needs about four.
A 4 or 6 compartment metal unit covers most backyard flocks, and an 8 compartment unit suits larger ones. Adding a spare nest is cheap insurance against egg eating and broodiness taking a box out of use.
Size and setup
Penn State says chicken nests should be at least 12 by 12 inches, larger for big breeds such as Orpingtons and Brahmas. Mount them at least 2 feet off the ground, with a front lip of 3 to 4 inches to hold bedding in, and fill with about 2 inches of clean, dry pine shavings or straw.
Place nests in the darkest, quietest part of the coop, away from windows and the door. Hens prefer to lay in a dim, private spot, and good placement is the simplest fix for eggs laid on the floor or out in the run.
Keeping nests away from roosts
Nests should sit lower than roosts and away from them; Penn State suggests nests at least 4 feet from roosts. Hens sleep on the highest perch available, and if a nest is higher, birds will roost in it overnight and fill it with droppings.
Dirty nests mean dirty eggs, cracked eggs and more mites. Block nests at dusk for a week or two if young hens start sleeping in them, until they learn to use the roost.
Cleaning and egg collection
Collect eggs at least once a day, more in hot weather, to keep them clean and to discourage broody hens and egg eating. Replace soiled bedding as soon as you see it and do a full clean out every few weeks.
Metal boxes can be scrubbed and disinfected. Wooden nests benefit from a check for red mites in the corners, especially in summer. A sprinkle of fresh bedding after each clean keeps eggs from cracking on a hard floor.
How many nesting boxes do I need for 6 chickens?
Penn State Extension recommends two nests for the first four hens and one more for every four after that, so three nest boxes for six hens.
What size should a chicken nesting box be?
At least 12 by 12 inches, and larger for big breeds, per Penn State Extension. Add a front lip of 3 to 4 inches to keep bedding in.
How high should nesting boxes be off the ground?
Mount nests at least 2 feet off the floor and lower than the roosts, so hens do not sleep in them.
What is the best bedding for nesting boxes?
Clean, dry pine shavings or straw, about 2 inches deep. Replace it whenever it gets soiled.
Are metal nesting boxes better than wooden ones?
Galvanized metal is easier to scrub and disinfect and gives mites fewer places to hide. Wooden boxes are warmer looking and quieter, and work well if kept clean.