Fish & aquariums
Aquarium supplies
Clear water. Happy fish.
12 items picked for everyday life with your pet, with shipping estimates on every item.
The essentials for a healthy tank or pond.All fish & aquariums homes, cages & gates →Aquarium decorations →Aquarium filters →Aquarium plants →Aquarium air pumps →Fish tank stands →
↗Tracked US shippingEstimates on every item↶Returns & refundsHow it works♡Here to helpTalk to Giddy Pets
All aquarium supplies
Little essentials. Lots of love.
Aquarium supplies
Manual Aquarium Bulb Pipette for Targeted Debris Removal
- Options
- 8 to choose from
$11.99
Aquarium filters
External Canister Aquarium Filter, 120V, 2 to 4 Stages
- Options
- 4 to choose from
From $86.99
A little guidance
Help choosing aquarium supplies
Buying guides and care advice written for this range: what to measure, what matters and what to skip.
From our guides
- Best Aquarium Air Pump: What Actually Matters →
- Best Aquarium Heater: How to Choose the Right One for Your Tank →
- Best Aquarium Lights: What Actually Matters →
- Best Aquarium Substrate: Gravel, Sand or Planted Soil? →
- Best Fish Tank: How to Choose the Right Aquarium for Your Fish →
- Best 20 Gallon Fish Tank: How to Choose One That Fits Your Fish →
This page is the hub for our aquarium supplies: three-stage external canister filters, electric gravel cleaner and fish tank vacuum kits with extension tubes, water conditioners, water clarifying powders and treatments, quick-dissolving water purifying tablets, aquarium cleaners and algae removers. It is for freshwater fish keepers setting up a tank, keeping water clear and making weekly maintenance quicker.
The basics every tank needs
A healthy aquarium rests on three things: a filter that removes waste, regular partial water changes, and water that has been treated before it goes in. Lighting, heaters, decor and plants come after. Most fish problems trace back to water quality, so the supplies on this page focus there.
Our aquarium filters page covers filtration in more depth; this hub brings together everything you use around it.
Filters and cleaning equipment
Three-stage canister filters sit below the tank and hold mechanical, biological and chemical media in separate trays. They suit medium and larger tanks, including one sized for around 28 gallons.
Electric gravel cleaners vacuum waste, uneaten food and debris out of the substrate while removing water, so cleaning and a water change happen in one job. Extension tubes reach the bottom of deep tanks without getting your arm wet.
Water conditioners
Tap water is treated for people, not fish, and it should be conditioned before it is added to a tank. A water conditioner is dosed into new water at every water change and top-up, following the label for the volume.
Match the temperature of new water to the tank as well, since a sudden change stresses fish. Add water slowly to avoid stirring up the substrate.
Clarifiers, purifiers and algae removers
Cloudy water usually means suspended particles or a bacterial bloom. Water clarifiers clump fine particles so the filter can catch them; purifying tablets and treatment powders are dosed per the label. Algae removers help when green water or algae on glass get out of hand.
These treat symptoms. Persistent cloudiness or algae usually points to overfeeding, too much light, too few water changes or a filter that is too small. Fix the cause, and use treatments as a short-term help, never above the stated dose.
A simple maintenance routine
Weekly: change part of the water, vacuum the gravel and wipe the glass. The Merck Veterinary Manual notes that only topping up evaporated water, without exchanging any, lets waste build up over time. Every few weeks: rinse filter sponges in removed tank water and replace worn floss.
Test water regularly for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH, especially in a new tank, where Merck notes a biofilter can take up to eight weeks to establish.
When fish look unwell
Fish gasping at the surface, clamped fins, white spots, frayed fins or fish lying on the bottom are signs something is wrong. Test the water first: high ammonia or nitrite is a common cause and calls for an immediate partial water change.
Do not add several treatments at once. If fish keep getting sick or dying after the water tests normal, a veterinarian with fish experience can diagnose the problem; aquatic vets exist in many areas.
Feeding and stocking
Overfeeding is one of the most common causes of poor water quality. Uneaten food rots on the gravel and adds to the waste the filter has to process. Feed only what your fish finish in a couple of minutes, and vacuum up any leftovers.
Add fish gradually and keep stocking within what your tank and filter can handle. The Merck Veterinary Manual warns that adding fish carelessly can cause ammonia or nitrite to spike, so test the water after each new addition and wait for levels to settle before adding more.
What supplies do I need to start an aquarium?
A tank, a filter sized for it, a heater for tropical fish, water conditioner, a gravel cleaner, a test kit, substrate and lighting.
How often should I clean my fish tank?
Most keepers change part of the water and vacuum the gravel weekly, and rinse filter media every few weeks in tank water.
Do I need water conditioner for my aquarium?
Yes, treat tap water with a conditioner before adding it to the tank at every water change, following the label.
Why is my aquarium water cloudy?
Usually suspended particles or a bacterial bloom, often from overfeeding or a new tank. Check the filter, feed less and test the water.
Are algae removers safe for fish?
Used at the labeled dose they are designed to be. Fix the cause too, such as excess light or nutrients.