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Snake enclosures
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All snake enclosures
Little essentials. Lots of love.
A little guidance
Help choosing snake enclosures
Buying guides and care advice written for this range: what to measure, what matters and what to skip.
From our guides
This page covers wooden reptile enclosures that suit snakes: terrariums with sliding glass doors, cages with three viewing windows and a slide-out tray, and a top-access cage. The range is small and mostly suits small to medium snakes such as corn snakes, kingsnakes and young ball pythons. It is for keepers setting up a first enclosure or upgrading from a starter tank.
What a snake enclosure has to do
VCA Animal Hospitals sets out the basics: the enclosure must be well ventilated and escape-proof, with sealed seams and a top or door that locks. Snakes are strong for their size and very good at pushing through small gaps, so check every door, lid and vent before your snake goes in.
Size matters too. VCA advises using the largest enclosure you can and notes that small or young snakes can start smaller and move up as they grow. A snake should be able to stretch out along at least most of its length and move between a warm and a cool end.
Wood versus glass
Wooden enclosures hold heat well and feel more secure to shy species because the sides are solid; only the front shows the room. VCA lists untreated wood among suitable materials but notes that wood is very hard to clean and disinfect thoroughly, so seal the interior, clean spills quickly and check for damp.
Glass and acrylic tanks are easier to sanitize and to watch your snake in, but lose heat faster. For a timid snake in a glass tank, VCA suggests a visual barrier on the outside of the walls to stop it pushing at the glass. With wood, the barrier is built in.
Heat gradient and hides
Snakes regulate body temperature by moving between warm and cool areas. VCA gives a general guide of about 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit at the cool end and 90 to 95 degrees at the warm end, with night temperatures around 65 to 70. Species differ, so check the needs of yours. Use thermometers at both ends.
VCA advises putting heat sources outside the cage behind a screen and out of the snake's reach, and avoiding heated rocks, which can burn. Provide at least one secure hide, ideally one at each end, plus sturdy branches. Never use a heat source that a snake can coil around.
Substrate and cleaning
Choose bedding that is easy to clean and safe if swallowed. VCA suggests newspaper, butcher paper, towels or reptile turf and warns against sand, gravel, wood shavings, corncob and cat litter, which can cause impaction; it flags cedar shavings as toxic to reptiles.
Remove waste every day or two, change water often, and wash the enclosure weekly. In a wooden cage, a slide-out tray makes this much easier. Look for signs of illness such as retained shed, mouth swelling, wheezing or refusing food for longer than normal, and see a reptile vet if you notice them.
What size enclosure does my snake need?
The largest you can provide. VCA advises starting small snakes in a smaller tank and upgrading as they grow, so the snake can stretch out and move between warm and cool ends.
Is a wooden enclosure good for a snake?
Wood holds heat well and gives shy snakes solid sides, but it is harder to disinfect. Seal it, clean spills quickly and check for moisture.
How warm should a snake enclosure be?
VCA gives a general guide of 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit at the cool end and 90 to 95 at the warm end. Check your species, and measure both ends with thermometers.
How do I stop my snake escaping?
Use an enclosure with sealed seams and a locking door or lid, and check vents and gaps regularly. Snakes can push through surprisingly small openings.