Where to Put a Litter Box (and How to Hide It)

What makes a good litter box location

A cat using the box is vulnerable, so the spot has to feel safe. The ASPCA recommends quiet places that are not cornered, where the cat can see people or animals approaching and has more than one escape route. Cornell Feline Health Center adds that the box should be private but accessible at all hours, so no doors that get shut at night.

Convenience for the cat matters more than convenience for you. A box in a distant basement is easy to ignore for a human, but for a kitten, an older cat or a cat with sore joints, it can be too far to reach in time. Put boxes where your cat already spends its day.

Places to avoid

Keep boxes away from food and water. Cats do not like to eat near their toilet, and both the ASPCA and VCA advise separating the two. Avoid spots next to washers, dryers, furnaces or anything that starts up suddenly and loudly; a single fright mid-use can put a cat off a box for good.

Busy hallways and entryways, rooms where the dog sleeps, and narrow spaces where another pet can block the only exit are also poor choices. The ASPCA specifically mentions keeping boxes away from the dog's food and water and from high-traffic areas.

Good spots in a typical home

A main bathroom works well for many homes, as long as the door is propped open with a doorstop so it cannot swing shut. A spare bedroom or home office, a quiet end of the living room, or a laundry room with the machines on the far side are other common choices.

If you have more than one box, which is recommended, spread them out: one on each floor, and in different rooms rather than side by side. Cornell suggests placing boxes in different areas of the house so no single location problem affects all of them.

How to hide a litter box

Furniture-style litter cabinets, folding screens, an open-top litter box fence, a cabinet under a bathroom sink with the door removed, or a large potted fake plant beside the box can all disguise it. The key is that the entrance stays wide and easy to use, the inside stays well ventilated, and your cat can see out as it approaches.

Introduce any enclosure gradually. Start with the open box in its usual spot, then add the cabinet around it with the door off, and only add a door or flap once your cat uses it confidently. Remember that the ASPCA and Cornell both report most cats prefer uncovered boxes, so an enclosure is a compromise. If your cat hesitates or starts going beside it, take the cover off.

Moving a litter box

Cats are creatures of habit, and a box that suddenly disappears can lead to accidents in the old spot. Move it gradually, a few feet a day, toward the new location. If the move is to another room, set up the new litter box first and leave the old one in place until your cat uses the new one reliably.

Whenever a cat starts going where a box used to be, you can place a box there temporarily, or put food bowls or a bed on that spot, which the ASPCA suggests to make it feel less like a toilet.

When location is not the problem

If your cat avoids a well-placed, clean box, have your vet check for a medical cause. Cornell lists urinary tract inflammation, kidney or thyroid disease, diabetes, digestive problems and age-related mobility changes among the common reasons. A cat straining with little urine should be seen the same day.

Stress and conflict between cats can also be behind it, and your vet can help you sort out which is which.

This page is general information, not veterinary advice, and it cannot replace an examination by the vet who knows your pet.