How Much Should I Feed My Cat?

Start with calories, not cups

Cat foods vary enormously in how many calories they pack into a cup or can, so the same scoop of two brands can differ by a third or more. Every bag and can in the US lists calories per cup or per can, usually written as kcal. That number, not the size of the bowl, is the one to work from.

For a starting point, Tufts University's Petfoodology uses about 260 calories a day as a very average figure for a 10 lb cat, and the common veterinary formula gives a little over 200 for a neutered, indoor cat of that weight. The Merck Veterinary Manual notes that two cats of the same weight can need 30% more or less than any calculated figure, which is why the next steps matter.

A rough guide by weight

As a broad starting range for healthy, spayed or neutered indoor adults at a good weight: a cat of about 8 lb often needs around 170 to 210 calories a day, a 10 lb cat around 200 to 260, and a 12 to 14 lb cat around 240 to 300. Active or outdoor cats, and cats that are not spayed or neutered, tend to need more; very sedentary cats less.

These ranges assume your cat is already at its ideal weight. For an overweight cat, feeding for the current weight keeps the extra pounds on. Ask your vet for your cat's ideal weight and a target calorie number, which VCA notes is the best approach.

How to turn calories into a daily portion

Step 1: Find the calories per cup or per can on the label. Step 2: Divide your cat's daily calorie target by that number to get cups or cans per day. Step 3: Take off about 10% for treats, the limit both VCA and Cornell suggest. Step 4: Split the result across two or more meals; a timed automatic cat feeder such as the Cat Automatic Pet Feeder Intelligence can portion them out.

Use a proper measuring cup or, better, a kitchen scale, since a heaped scoop can easily hold a third more than you think. If you feed both wet and dry, work out what share of the day's calories comes from each. Our wet food guide walks through the can math.

Check body shape and adjust

Your cat's body is the real feedback. At a healthy weight you can feel the ribs easily under a thin layer of fat, see a waist from above and find no hanging belly pouch beyond a little loose skin. Cornell includes a nine-point body condition scale where five is ideal, and your vet can score your cat at each visit.

Weigh your cat monthly; a bathroom scale works if you weigh yourself holding the cat and subtract your own weight. If weight creeps up, reduce the daily amount by about one-tenth and recheck in a month. If your cat is losing weight without trying, call your vet rather than simply adding food.

Feeding guides, treats and other common mistakes

The feeding chart on a bag is a starting point written for an average cat. Cornell notes that a less active cat may need less than the label suggests, and many indoor cats gain weight on label amounts. Use the chart, then let body shape decide.

Treats, table scraps and dental chews all carry calories. VCA recommends keeping them to 10% of the daily total, and Cornell says 10 to 15%. Avoid raw meat and milk, which Cornell cautions against, and measure every meal into your cat's bowl, not just the first one each day.

When to call your vet

Call your vet if your cat stops eating for a day, eats much less for several days, loses weight without a change in diet, or suddenly seems ravenous. Cats that refuse food and lose weight should be examined, according to Cornell, and a sudden appetite increase with weight loss can be a sign of illness in older cats.

Ask your vet before putting an overweight cat on a diet, too. Rapid weight loss is dangerous for cats, so a safe plan is gradual and supervised.

This page is general information, not veterinary advice, and it cannot replace an examination by the vet who knows your pet.