Best Budgie Cage: How to Choose a Safe, Roomy Home

What matters most: size, bars and shape

Merck Veterinary Manual lists a minimum cage of 20 by 20 by 30 inches (length, width, height) with bar spacing of 0.5 inch for budgerigars. VCA gives a lower general minimum of 1 foot by 1 foot by 2 feet for finches, canaries and budgerigars, but it also says bigger is better, so treat the Merck figure as the safer target. Merck adds that a cage should be at least one and a half times the bird's wingspan in all directions.

Shape matters as much as size. VCA recommends a rectangular cage that is about as long as it is tall, and Merck says most birds prefer rectangular cages to round ones because they like having corners to sit in. Bars should be close enough that your budgie cannot get its head or legs stuck, so measure the gap before you buy rather than trusting a product title.

Types of budgie cage compared

A standard rectangular cage on a tabletop or rolling stand is the most practical choice for one or two budgies. A taller cage on wheels, such as a 52-inch cage on a rolling stand for budgies and canaries, gives climbing room and moves for cleaning, though a cage on a stand also needs a stable base.

A wider aviary-style cage, like a 55-inch two-in-one aviary cage for parakeets and finches, gives more horizontal flying space, which suits a pair or a small group. Round and dome-topped cages look attractive but give less usable space. If you are also weighing cages for larger small birds, our bird cages show the wider range.

Best type for each situation

For a single budgie, a cage at or above the minimum with several horizontal perches at different heights is plenty. For a pair, size up, because Merck says a cage housing more than one bird should be even larger, and two birds need room to move around without crowding each other.

For a budgie that spends most of the day inside, choose the biggest cage you can manage, since a bird that lives in its cage needs room to move beyond the bare minimum. For a small apartment, a tall cage on a stand makes the best use of floor space, as long as it still meets the width minimum.

Materials, finish and perches

VCA says all-metal cages are the most practical to keep clean, and that wood, wicker and bamboo cages are hard to disinfect because they are porous. It also warns that some older cages contain zinc in the coating, which is toxic if a bird chews it, and that painted cages can chip. Stainless steel or an electroplated or well-finished coating is the safer pick.

Perches should vary in diameter so your budgie's feet get different pressure. VCA says a bird should be able to wrap its toes about three-quarters of the way around a perch, and that perches that are too wide can cause slipping. Natural wood perches are favored, and food and water dishes are best attached to the cage side so droppings do not fall into them.

What to avoid

Avoid cages with wide bar gaps, loose or chipped paint, and cages small enough that your budgie cannot fully spread its wings. Avoid mirror toys, which Merck says can confuse and stress birds, and avoid crowding the cage with so many toys that your budgie has no free perch.

Where you place the cage matters too. Merck says to keep it away from windows and air conditioning, where it can get too hot or too cold, and out of the kitchen, because smoke and cooking fumes can harm birds. Most birds should not have the cage covered at night, according to Merck, so fix drafts instead.

Cleaning, lifespan and when to call a vet

VCA says food and water dishes should be easy to clean and disinfect every day, and toys should be washed in warm soapy water and rinsed well. A cage with a removable tray and bottom grille, like this budgie cage with a removable tray and wooden perches, makes the daily tray change quicker.

Check the cage regularly for loose wires, rust or chipped coating, and replace parts that have worn. Call an avian or exotic vet if your budgie stops eating, sits fluffed up on the floor, or shows trouble breathing. When you are ready to compare, browse our parakeet cages.

This page is general information, not veterinary advice, and it cannot replace an examination by the vet who knows your pet.